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Bareroot Iris Planting Instructions

Bareroot Iris Planting Instructions

Quick Tip: For bearded iris, shallow planting is key — it’s better for the rhizome to be partly exposed than buried. Full coverage is the most common reason for failed blooms or rotted rhizomes.

 

1. Timing

Best time to plant: Late summer to early fall (July–September), so rhizomes establish roots before winter.

Alternative: Early spring in mild climates, once soil is workable and 50°F+.


2. Preparing the Rhizomes

Unpack rhizomes and inspect: firm, healthy

Trim damaged or excessively long roots to 3–4 inches.

Avoid soaking — bearded iris rhizomes like to stay relatively dry until planted.


3. Choosing a Site

Sunlight: Full sun (6–8 hours per day) for best bloom.

Soil: Well-drained soil is essential; standing water causes rot.

Airflow: Good circulation reduces disease risk.


4. Preparing the Soil

Loosen soil 10–12 inches deep.

Amend with compost or well-rotted organic matter if soil is poor.

In clay soils, mix in sand or small gravel to improve drainage.


5. Planting

Dig a shallow hole or trench just wide enough to spread the roots.

Create a low mound in the center of the hole.

Place the rhizome horizontally, with roots spread over the mound.

Position the rhizome so roughly 2/3rd of the rhizome is above soil and the lower half is roughly 1/3rd below the soil. Roots go below soil, rhizome above.

If roots or tops are dry or brown – that’s okay. They are either dormant, going into or out dormancy. If the rhizome is firm, the plant is viable.

Space rhizomes 12–18 inches apart.


6. Watering

Water lightly after planting to settle roots.

Keep soil slightly moist but not soggy until established.

Once established, bearded iris prefer drier soil; overwatering can rot rhizomes.


7. Mulching

Generally avoid heavy mulch — it traps moisture around the rhizome and causes rot.

In cold climates, a very light mulch after the ground freezes is okay, but remove in spring.


8. Aftercare

Fertilize lightly in early spring with a low-nitrogen fertilizer (too much nitrogen encourages rot).

Remove spent flowers to direct energy to the rhizome.

Cut back foliage to 6 inches in fall after frost.

Divide clumps every 3–5 years to maintain vigor.


  Common factors that limit plant health and flowering:

Planted too deep → rhizomes rot or fail to bloom.

Poor sunlight → <6 hours/day drastically reduces flowers.

Overwatering or poor drainage → crown rot.

High nitrogen fertilizer → encourages leafy growth, suppresses blooms.

Crowding or old rhizomes → must divide every 3–5 years to maintain flowering.